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Sliding or hinged wardrobe doors

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In short: sliding doors take no room to open, so they go where the floor in front is tight — a bedroom with the bed close by, a hallway, a child bedroom. You pay twice for that: the track assembly eats 8 to 10 cm of carcase depth, and with two panels a third of the wardrobe is always behind a door, so you never see the whole interior at once. Hinged doors cost no depth and open everything together, but they need roughly 60 cm of clear floor in front. The choice is therefore not about taste but about which you have less of in that room: floor space or depth.

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What actually decides this, and what does not

During a measuring visit the question usually arrives as either are sliders not more reliable, or are hinged doors not cheaper. Both miss. Reliability is set not by the type of door but by the quality of the mechanism and by whether the floor under the wardrobe is level: a floor out by two centimetres will ruin slider rollers and hinges alike, only in different ways.

The real difference is geometric and a tape measure settles it in two minutes. Sliders take depth from inside the carcase; hinged doors take floor area in front of it. Once that is stated in centimetres, the decision usually makes itself without any discussion of looks.

Four options and what each one costs in centimetres

The difference shows if you look past the front and ask how much space each answer takes, and from where.

Sliding doors

Panels travel along the carcase, so nothing is needed in front of the wardrobe. They take 8 to 10 cm of depth for the top and bottom tracks — in a 600 mm carcase the usable depth drops to about 500, which is exactly the point where a coat hanger starts to catch. The second trait: with two panels a third of the wardrobe is permanently behind a door. For everyday clothes that is trivial; for finding one particular shirt it is not.

Hinged doors

They cost no depth at all, open a bay completely, and hinges are cheaper than rollers and easier to replace. They need clear floor in front: with a 500 mm door leaf that is roughly 550 to 600 mm to the nearest obstacle. In a bedroom where the bed stands 700 mm away this works; where it stands 400 mm away it does not, and no choice of hardware changes that.

Bi-fold doors

The leaf folds in half, so it projects forward by roughly half its width rather than all of it. This is the compromise between the first two: almost no loss of carcase depth, and about 300 mm of clear floor needed. You pay in hardware complexity — more moving parts than a hinge, and more frequent adjustment.

An open system with no doors

It costs neither depth nor floor space and is the cheapest thing to build. It suits a walk-in or an alcove that is not visible from the whole room. The one thing to know in advance: without doors, clothes collect dust, and tidiness on open shelves becomes part of the decoration — where there are no doors, things have to be folded properly every day.

How a tape measure settles it in five minutes

  1. Measure from the wall to the first obstacle

    Stand where the front will be and measure to the bed, the desk, the radiator or the opposite wall. Under 600 mm rules hinged doors out; between 300 and 600 mm bi-folds survive; under 300 mm leaves only sliders or an open system. That is the first and most important measurement, and it removes half the options straight away.

  2. Work out how much depth you can give away

    Clothes on hangers need at least 550 mm of clear internal space, because the shoulders of an adult shirt are about 520. If the carcase comes out at 600 mm, sliders leave roughly 500 and hangers have to sit across the opening rather than along it. At that point you either take the wardrobe deeper, to 650 or 700 mm, or you use hinged doors.

  3. Think about how often you need to see everything at once

    If the wardrobe holds seasonal clothes and bedding, having a third of it behind a door never gets in the way. If it is the main wardrobe for two people and daily clothes, then opening it and seeing half of it wears on you more than it seems during a measuring visit. That is exactly why wide wardrobes are often built with three panels rather than two: less of the interior stays hidden.

The short answers

Do sliding doors rattle and fall out of line over time?

Rattle and drift are almost never the doors; they are the floor and the fitting. A track screwed to an uneven floor without levelling puts the panel out of square, and from then on the roller travels in an arc. On a level base with a decent mechanism a panel runs quietly for years. The question worth asking is not which brand of roller but whether the fitter will level the base and whether the mechanism includes a soft-close damper.

Can the two be combined, sliders on part of the run and hinged doors on the rest?

Yes, and it is a sound answer for a long wall: sliders where the bed is close, hinged bays further along where the floor is clear. It looks right provided the fronts are the same material with the same edging. The one thing to watch is that the door heights match, because a difference of a few centimetres along the top line is visible immediately.

How many panels suit a wardrobe two metres wide?

Two panels of a metre each are heavier to move and leave half the interior closed, so a two-metre wardrobe more often gets three panels of about 670 mm: lighter to slide, only a third hidden, and a softer action. Where the wardrobe sits in an alcove tight against both walls, two panels sometimes win on appearance — there the deciding factor is whether there is room at the side for a panel to travel.

More articles

A child's room

Build the carcase full size and fit only the parts you can later move.

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Kitchen hardware

Runners, hinges and dampers wear out first — and they are the least visible line in a quote.

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Where to start

Measure from the wall to the bed or desk and send us that one number, and we will tell you which doors would actually open in your room.

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