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Caring for your furniture

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In short: fitted furniture does not wear out from being used. It wears out from two things — water left standing on a joint or an edge, and abrasives rubbed on a front. The rest of the care is a damp cloth and a mild detergent once a week. Below: what to use on what, what to check once a season, and what never to do, even when a mark "will not come off".

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Why water and why abrasives

A carcase and most fronts are board with a finish across the face and edging on the edges. The face does not mind water. The edge and the joint do: water standing there for minutes finds its way under the edging, the board takes up moisture and swells. It does not dry back — a swollen patch stays swollen. Hence the one rule that matters: wipe it, rather than wait for it to dry by itself.

The second killer is abrasives. Powder, the hard side of a sponge, a wire pad take off not the mark but a layer of the finish. On a matt front it shows immediately as a patch of different sheen; on gloss, as a web of fine scratches that then catches any side light. The layer removed does not come back.

Everything else about care follows from those two rules rather than being a separate trick.

What to use on what

Four surfaces, each with its own product and its own prohibition.

Fronts

A soft cloth, warm water, a little washing-up liquid. Dry off afterwards, especially along the bottom edge and the edges. Out: scouring powders, anything with bleach, anything labelled for heavy soiling, acetone and solvents. Gloss and matt are cleaned the same way; gloss simply has to be dried off every time or it keeps the streaks.

  • warm water + washing-up liquid
  • dry off the edges
  • no powders or solvents

Worktop

Wipe up spills at once, above all near the sink and on joints. Hot pans go on a trivet, knives go on a board. A wine, beetroot or coffee mark is best dealt with while fresh, before it reaches a seam or the surface texture. Out: cutting on the surface, hot pans straight down, abrasives.

  • spills wiped at once
  • a trivet under hot pans
  • a board under the knife

Glass and mirror

Glass cleaner onto the cloth, not onto the surface: sprayed straight at a mirrored door it runs down and gets under the edge, where the backing is. That is where dark edges start, and those do not come off.

  • cleaner on the cloth
  • never flood the edge
  • a dry cloth after

Hardware and mechanisms

Hinges, runners and dampers get a dry or barely damp cloth and no cleaning products. Their lubrication needs nothing from you, and household oil collects dust and makes things worse. Every few months it is worth wiping grit off the drawer runners: grit is what makes a drawer grate as it moves.

  • no cleaning products
  • no household oil
  • wipe grit off the runners

Weekly and seasonal

  1. Weekly: a damp wipe

    Fronts, worktop, handles. Handles especially: grease from hands settles on them and then shows as a halo around them even when the front itself is clean.

  2. Weekly: the worktop-to-wall joint

    The most vulnerable spot in the whole kitchen. Dry it off and check whether the trim or the sealant has lifted. If it has, it is cheaper to fix now than to have a swollen edge in six months.

  3. Seasonally: tighten the handles

    Handles work loose with use; that is normal. A crosshead screwdriver, half a turn, no heroics: an over-tightened handle pulls the front with it.

  4. Seasonally: check door alignment

    If a door no longer lines up with its neighbours, that is adjusted on the hinge screws in a few minutes. Hinges adjust in three directions, and doing so is routine, not a repair.

  5. Seasonally: look under the sink

    Take a torch and look: dry, or is there a trace of a drip? A quiet leak under the sink is the commonest reason a base unit swells from inside, and it is usually found late.

What ruins a finish fastest

Steam aimed at one front. A kettle or a multicooker under a wall cabinet sends hot steam at the same spot on its bottom edge every day. After a year it shows. The cure is to move the appliance or pull it out while it runs.

A damp cloth left on the worktop. A wet cloth lying on a joint for an hour does exactly what a spill does, only for longer and more thoroughly.

Sun on one spot. Direct light on the same place every day fades the colour: within a year that area is lighter than the rest of the front. On a south-facing wall this is worth allowing for at the planning stage, because there is no going back from it.

And most often of all: "just rub a bit harder this once". If warm water will not shift a mark, the answer is time rather than abrasive — wet it, let it stand, wipe with something soft. An abrasive removes the mark together with the finish, and that is final.

The short answers

Can fronts be cleaned with a steam cleaner?

No. A steam cleaner delivers moisture under pressure, and the seam between finish and edging is not built for that pressure. It is the fastest way to drive water somewhere it would never have reached on its own.

A door no longer closes square. Is that a warranty matter?

Usually it is simply adjustment: hinges have screws on three axes and are set in a few minutes. If after adjustment the door still sits out of line, or a hinge has pulled out of the board, that is a different question and gets looked at on site.

There is a pale mark on the worktop from something hot. What now?

If heat has changed the colour of the finish, it is not dirt and it will not rub off. The options depend on the worktop material and get assessed on site. The cheapest option here is prevention: a trivet.

How do I avoid streaks on gloss?

Two cloths: a damp one lifts the dirt, a dry soft one takes it dry. Streaks on gloss are not the product, they are water that was left to dry on its own.

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Where to start

If something has swollen, moved or stopped closing, write to us with a photograph. Some of these are solved by adjustment on site, and the sooner the simpler.

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Makariv · Kyiv · Kyiv region

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